Saturday, June 23, 2007

Ireland is the biggest counrty in the world

According to Sean and James Egan, it's true. James Keith and David are suspicious, because they know all the words to 'Canada's Really Big' by the Arrogant Worms. Apparently, there are many underground levels we haven't seen, and less gravity in the North of Ireland where Finn McCool is from, so everything is really really big up there. Irish weather has been living up to the legend for the past few days. heavy rains and even some flooding along the rivers in and around Dublin. It's made drying the laundry quite a chore.

Yesterday we spent some time planning the last weeks of our adventure (Stonehaven, Aberdeen, Keith, Inverness, Glenfinnian, Isle of Mull and maybe Iona, Loch Lomond, and perhaps the two big cities of Scotland, then to Balla in Wales, Bath and London) and then headed out to see one of the largest tall ships in the world at the Liffey quays.

So, the ship is the Liberdad from Argentina. It is a massive three-masted full rigged ship, used for officer training. It is in Ireland to celebrate the fact that the Argentine Navy was founded by an Irishman, Admiral Brown.

Who knew.

In fact, the US Navy was also founded by an Irishman from Wexford - John Barry. There is a statue of the man in Wexford which, at one time, was visited by US President Eisenhower for a dedication. Anyhow, the Argentine ship was not open to visitors at the moment we arrived, but John Egan spoke to the young officer in charge in Spanish and they let us sailors on for a mini-tour. We also met Deirdre's cousin Cormac, his wife Neive and their 2 year old daughter Isabel down at the ship. When it really started raining hard, we repaired to O'Brien's Ferryman pub on the docks (to hear some real sailors swear) for a pint. Nice visit. Cormac is in a band called 'Stoat' - they have a web page if you are interested.

Last night, Deirdre and I joined Dan Egan at the Abbey Theatre (founded by Yeats) to watch a performance of the Crucible (Arthur Millar). Great performance, and a fine time at the pub after as well. Dan claims to be saving for another trip to Canada some time in the next 5 years or so, and we'll try to hold him to it.

Today we headed North into County Meath to see Seamus at the seminary where he lives, and to visit the 5200 year-old tomb at Newgrange. Older than lots of stuff in Egypt, it is. We had a a great time with the Egan men, and are now back in Dublin getting ready to fly tomorrow.

We have had such a great time in Ireland. Everyone has taken great care of us, and we've enjoyed every visit. Hopefully it will not be another 16 years before we return.

Many apologies for not updating pictures; I have been trying, but there is something wrong with the interface for our page here. They won't upload! We'll keep trying, or create another page for pictures (all 5000+ of them?). Cheers.

Monday, June 18, 2007

West Ireland Road Trip

Good afternoon from Claremorris, County Mayo. We have covered a fair bit of both rocky and fertile ground around Ireland in the last week. We drove towards County Clare via Limmerick where we stopped to see an interesting cave near Mitchelstown. The entrance is at a farmer's house, where one knocks on the door to pay the admission. From there we headed North to the Burren, a high rocky plateau covered with ancient mystical ruins. We stayed for three days at Clare's Rock Hostel, run by Pat Cassidy, right down the road from Cassidy's pub. You can see where this is going... Cassidy's bus lines take you to all the sites if you don't have a car. The local dairy, Cassidy's, makes really good ice cream...

The Burren is dotted with ruined ring-forts and Dolmans dating back about 1600 years. The area has been continuously settled for over 8000 years, which is hard to imagine given the very rocky terrain. We also spent some time at the Aliwee caves, the cliffs of Moher (where a scene from 'the Princess Bride' was filmed) and the swimming pool in the town of Lehinch. After three days of exploring, we headed Norht to Claremorris. We've been in the good hands of Dan Egan, Jarrod and Anne Egan (great dinner!) and their family, Noula (really great stew!) and Seamus and their boys John, Darraugh and Keiran, and have seen a lot of the county. We spent some time visiting with Deirdre's grand-aunt Kay at her house. She let us know that it's been there as a farm in he family for over 100 years.

Yesterday we climbed part-way up Croak Patrick, the highest mountain in Ireland and the mystical spot where St. Patrick fasted and contemplated the future of the faith of Ireland, and spent some time on the beach at Old Head near Westport. Just off shore from there is Clare's Island, home to Ireland's most famous Pirate, Grace O'Malley.

We've been staying at the Egan family farm which is still home to a few cows and a horse. At night, we burn peat in the fire, sip Irish whiskey. play cards and tell tales of adventures past and present. David and James have learned quite a bit of Irish history, and a lot about their family here. Today they had a chance to ride out in the tractor with Seamus Murphy to count the yearling cows in the far pasture, and to check out the milking operation at the farm. David is really interested in all of this; James just wants to drive the tractor...

Thursday we head back to Dublin, then to Aberdeen, Scotland on Sunday. It rains a lot here, but it sounds like the ground is more used to taking it up than in Clagary... keep your wellies handy...

Sunday, June 10, 2007

Hot days in Ferrycarrig

Good evening blog watchers. We have been having a wonderful time staying with John and Bernadette Parle here in the sunny Southeast. Touring County Wexford makes one a true believer in Ireland's charm and natural beauty, no doubt. We've had absolutely glorious hot sunny weather since leaving Dublin. On the way down we stopped at the Abbey of Glendalough and had a great time driving the back roads with Eoin Parle. Over the last few days, we've spent some time on the stunning beach near Curracloe where the film 'Saving Private Ryan' was shot. Deirdre has been swimming in the Irish sea there, and the boys have been making excellent sand castles. We've also spent some time in the town of Wexford, been down to the sea at Kilmore Quays, explored the grounds around Johson Castle, toured a famine ship in New Ross, found our way out of an extensive hedge maze at Dunbrody Abbey and watched the surf pounding at the foot of the lighthouse on Hook Head.

Yesterday John Parle and Dan Egan took me to the county final hurling match at Nowlan Park in Kilkenny. County Wexford (the Yellowbellies sponsored by Wexford Cheddar) and County Dublin ( the Arnotts? sponsored by...Guinness?) played a thrilling, head-bashing, knee-snapping match that saw the favourite Wexford squad narrowly defeat Dublin in the dying seconds by one score. If you ever get a chance to see a hurling match, go. It made NHL hockey play-offs look a bit silly, especially considering NONE of the hurling players get paid a cent to play, and the effort they make in the game far surpasses anything routinely seen in professional sports.

Tomorrow is our last day in Wexford; we will be renting a car and winding along the very skinny roads towards Waterford and the Rock of Cashel. We'll be staying later in the week at Clare's Rock Hostel in the Burren, County Clare, near the cliffs of Moher, Dingle and Galway. We meet up with Dan Egan again in Mayo on Saturday and will spend some time on the farm where Deirdre's mother was born before heading back to Dublin. Having hard luck trying to get more pictures on this thing, but will try next time we have high-speed access.

Hope everyone in Calgary is recovered from the flood. HOT AND SUNNY IN IRELAND!!?!!

Tuesday, June 5, 2007

Lucky days

We are having a great time in Dublin, visiting with family (John, Geraldine, James, Sean, Mary, Peter, Catherine & Connel, Seamus, Padragh, Groinge, Olivia & Eoin, Ann, Alan, Serena & Joshua, Dan too) and seeing some sites. We've been to the natural history museum, and spent some time looking at tall ships on the Liffey during Dublin's Maritime Days festival. Also, we went to see Jack Sparrow escape from Davy Jones's locker at the movies with cousin Josh Warren yesterday, so the nautical theme continues!

Shortly, we are off the the Guinness Storehouse with cousin Sean Egan to see how they make the famous stout. Surprisingly, it's s'posed to be a good tour for kids, in spite of them not being able to consume the end product. Sean's brother James has started a summer job as an apprentice in the brewery, which includes daily free lunches and free guinness. Nice work if you can get it.

Tomorrow we head to the sunny South East with cousin Eoin Parle to see his parents John and Bernadette, and to maybe, finally get out to a pub or two. Must head out to learn the secrets of black beer (Dublin is from Irish "Duhb Lin", meaning black water or black pools - little did they know how important little black pools might become...)

Clare Feasby - still waiting to hear what a 'Hollaback Girl' is; maybe Meagan and Kate Norris can help out! Cheers, Amigos